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6 reasons to visit Takovo and Rajac

We remember our glorious ancestors and their long-lasting, persistent, and heroic fight for liberation from the Ottomans. This year marks 220 years since the beginning of the First Serbian Uprising and almost 190 years since the adoption of the Sretenje Constitution. We are off to the slopes of the Dičina and Klatičevska River, to the homeland of staunch rebels and notable oak trees.

Rajac

BECAUSE THE WOODEN TAKOVO CHURCH IS THE CHURCH OF REBELS

Let all the burden fall on our soul, our shoulders, and our honour…”, answered the crowd in unison at the people’s assembly, after Miloš Obrenović announced the beginning of a new rebellion, the Second Serbian Uprising, on the Palm Sunday in 1815. On the hill in front of the wooden church, after the morning liturgy. The attendees then took communion, swore allegiance to each other and headed to the centuries-old oak trees in the nearby valley, where a large group of rebels ready for battle was waiting for them.

The church dedicated to St. George was built in 1795 on the site of a building built around seventy years before it. With a foundation of hewn stone, made of oak planks. A typical example of a wooden cabin built by the builders from Osat in Bosnia. The wooden door is decorated with rich carving. It is rather low. So that one needs to bend when entering and so that Ottomans wouldn’t enter it on horseback. The iconostasis, whose parts were donated by Jovan, Miloš’s brother, is still preserved. It was renovated in 1935. In the churchyard, there is still a stone from which Miloš gave his rebellious speech, and an old village cemetery with tombstones, some of which are decorated with unusual patterns and crosses, and some have a sabre or a rifle carved on them. Not far from the wooden church is the Church of St. Sava in Savinac, the first endowment of Miloš Obrenović in liberated Serbia.

Takovo crkva

BECAUSE THE MUSEUM OF THE SECOND SERBIAN UPRISING IS A REPRESENTATION OF THE SERBIAN REVOLUTION

It was opened in 1994 at the former elementary school in Takovo, the endowment of King Aleksandar Obrenović. It gives an overview of the fight against the Ottomans, from the First Serbian Uprising in 1804 to the end of the first Miloš’s rule in 1839, the so-called Serbian Revolution. The most important exhibits are the remains of the famous old Takovo oak tree, and Paja Jovanović’s masterpiece “The Takovo Uprising”, from 1895. It is the first version of the painting and is larger than the second, which is the property of the National Museum in Belgrade. Other important items include Miloš’s ceremonial suit, albeit a replica, because the original is in Belgrade, and the blanket for his horse. Many other works of art are also on display, including original and copies of documents, publications and correspondence, objects for everyday use, the earliest modern decorations, state symbols, and weapons. A walk around a small but beautifully designed exhibition gives a rather interesting overview of the rebellious Serbia.

A few kilometres away is the residence of Prince Miloš in Gornja Crnuća. Although it has a permanent exhibition setting, it is difficult to see it. Unfortunately, we did not succeed in it. The residence is located on a private property, surrounded by houses and outbuildings, and there is no permanent host. It was renovated about ten years ago and is of great cultural importance. The building is considered the first court of modern Serbia. It is the place of the session of the insurgent assembly, and the capital of the Principality until its relocation to Kragujevac in 1818. After the announcement of the popular rebellion in the wooden church, Miloš went to this residence, put on his most festive suit, unwrapped an insurgent flag and shouted in front of the gathered people: “Here I am, and here is the war with the Ottomans”!

Muzej u Takovu

BECAUSE THE TAKOVO OAK TREE REPRESENTS THE FREEDOM OF SERBIA

A few kilometres from the Museum, there is a historically significant place, decorated in the memory of the Second Serbian Uprising, the liberation from the Ottomans, and the creation of the modern Serbian state. The area from the slope is dominated by the monumental bronze monument “The Takovo Uprising”, the work of Petar Ubavkić, which represents the moment of the declaration of the uprising. It overlooks a wide field of a few hectares, which is adorned with several monuments. A stone path leads to the obelisk “Under the Takovo Oak Tree”, which was built by the grateful people of the Rudnik area at the end of the 19th century. Made of marble, with carved insurgent and state insignia, it also includes the verses of Aleksa Nenadović: “This oak tree will dry up during time and the stone pillar will collapse, but Serbia will always stand straight and mention the name of Miloš with pride.” Behind it is a meadow on which the summer house of Aleksandar Obrenović should be rebuilt, once a three-story building with 36 rooms, with its exterior resembling the villas of the Austrian aristocracy and with its interior in the style of Šumadija region in Serbia. The castle of Takovo was destroyed in a fire in 1917 under unexplained circumstances. There is a sign of the place of the old pedunculate oak tree, under which the battle for freedom began. It was a real monstrosity. 23 meters high and with the trunk circumference of nine meters. However, over time, it began to deteriorate, so the people linked the fate of the oak tree to the fate of the Obrenović dynasty. Namely, the larger branch broke off in 1860, foreshadowing the death of Miloš, the smaller one eight years later when Mihailo was killed, and in 1901 the storm uprooted it, announcing the collapse of the Obrenović dynasty. However, during his life, Prince Mihailo renewed the sacred Serbian tree. The successor was planted in 1865. It was leafy until the 1990s, and now it is a dried-up natural sculpture. A century later, a sapling of the third Takovo oak tree was planted opposite it. In honour of the unforgettable words of Prince Mihailo that “as long as there a Serbian state and people exist, there shall be an oak tree growing in Takovo as a symbol of freedom and independence”.

Takovski grm

VIDEO

6 reasons to visit Takovo and Rajac

BECAUSE RAJAC IS A LITTLE HEAVEN ON EARTH

After an exciting walk through the history, it is worth taking a breath of fresh air and allowing impressions to sink in. In nature, of course. Nearby, about fifteen kilometres from the notable oak trees, there is Rajac, a favourite excursion site of many. The area on Suvobor Mountain stretches at an altitude of 600 to 850 meters. According to tradition, it got its name from old travel writers, who saw it as a heaven on earth (Serbian word “raj” means heaven). A lot of people would agree. It is best to get to know it on foot. There are several landscaped trails, so you can choose which suits you best. The length and names of the trails are highlighted on a wooden board next to the mountain lodge, in the centre of the place. And whether they diverge along the way and whether there are signposts at the crossroads, you will find out for yourself. But it doesn’t matter if you stray a little. Through gentle, spacious meadows and glades interwoven with clear streams and rivers, through forests of beech, oak, birch, fir, and pine trees, the connoisseurs of Rajac say that you will surely reach an area of unexpected natural beauty, probably even a cave. You may also encounter a bunny, a fox, a roe deer, and even a wild boar. Or hosts of chalets who will surely show you the way, and possibly offer some refreshment.

Natural beauties also exhibit traces of their history. At the centre, near the mountain lodge, there is a monument to the brave fighters of the Battle of Kolubara. Next to it is a scythe sculpture, in honour of the famous manifestation “Mowing on Rajac”, which is held every year. A notice board has also been set up, indicating catering and accommodation facilities and natural beauties, so it is necessary to study it before embarking on an adventure. For adrenaline seekers, Rajac is also known for paragliding. It is perhaps the most beautiful way to experience this small natural paradise of Suvobor Mountain.

Rajac

BECAUSE THE RESTAURANT TIP-TOP IS TRUE TO ITS NAME

On the Ibarska main road, near the exit for the Miloš the Great motorway, we stop for some refreshment. In the pleasant interior, we are welcomed by a hospitable lady. After a mountain walk, veal broth is always a great choice, with freshly baked, hot buns. As the taverns by the road are known for their delicious barbecue, we do not think much. We order dry-cured pork neck and ćevapi dish, with hot peppers and refreshing salads, with a piece of goat cheese. Food and service are almost completely in accordance with the name – Tip-Top. And prices are more than decent. Warm recommendation for a break and traditional abundant food.

Restoran Tip-Top Takovo

BECAUSE COFFEE SHOULD ALWAYS BE TOP-QUALITY

We always leave the pleasure of having the black drink for our favourite places – NIS Petrol and Gazprom. The reason is simple – the coffee is always fresh and top-notch. And we can choose the coffee type and size of the cup. It suits every taste and desire. Sometimes we take a break in the Drive Cafe restaurant, and sometimes we take the coffee away and enjoy it on the way home so that we can enjoy its pleasant scent during the entire trip.

NIS Petrol Ljig

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